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Today's video of the Crazy Circle climbs out of the challenge of the CCTV international channel's "Away From Home" special program. It feels powerless.
CCTV, as the authority of this media industry, should be decontaminated, and disseminate correct scientific knowledge and technology. However, knowing that climbing is an extreme sport, it is utterly astounding to find someone who is completely amateur and who has no knowledge of safety as a coach, and to spread false and insecure technology to a wide audience. The China Mountaineering Association already has a technical standard for the operation of the ice-climbing movement. When we think about it with our toes, we all know that we should consult the most professional organizations before the festival. Instead of going to "heard" XX, I am very professional. It is hard to forgive the mistakes of the “far-away home” program group. This is entirely perfunctory, or is there guidance of other interest conditions?
As the "coacher" of Zhao Xing, he exposed the innocence of common people. The quality of climbing is not the standard for participating in this sport. It is a good experience to challenge yourself as long as you are safe and happy. However, even the most basic security technologies and rules of safe operation do not understand or obey, and they are transmitted to the public through television media. If someone mimics such an operation and an accident occurs, Zhao Xing’s coach will certainly not take any responsibility, so he can face. He is not red and has a self-centered mind. It is really an old saying "half pot water, ringing bells".
Where is the fault in the program? We tell you
The leader will then reveal the main security issues in the video for everyone
1. How to climb
Coach Zhao's technique of connecting himself to the rope through the fan's connection and constantly pushing up the ascent and climbing techniques is the first time he sees it. It seems that the main rope should be fixed above the icefall. It is the static rope or the motive rope that cannot be directly distinguished through the video. I hope it is not bought at the labor insurance shop.
Leading: When climbing ice, there will be coaches like Zhao, who will first go around the ice wall to protect the station, then lay down the rope and then carry out the protection of the top rope. Zhao coach does not call the road to the top of the ice waterfall. Pioneer climbing, the real pioneering climber is the climber from under the icefall, the main rope is directly connected to the seatbelt. When climbing, the main rope is continuously buckled into the anchor point set on the ice, protected by the partner on the other side of the rope. Climb up safely and finally set up a protection station to allow participants to climb through the top rope protection; Pioneer climbing requires climbers to have more stable technology and greater psychological endurance. Coach Zhao’s technology is obviously not enough Pioneering ice climbing.
Leading the climb: In the video, Coach Zhao did not have any ice picks in the equipment. Instead, he saw the hanging pieces used in sports climbing. Suspected that Coach Zhao was fixing the rope at the top of the icefall and knocking on the rock to hang the film. Of course, the hanging piece was firm. It is not known whether or not it satisfies the need to form a protection station, but the unsuspecting reporter chose to trust this coach Zhao completely and did not think too much about whether the master rope would climb from the top of the icefall. Fall off.
Figure is now commonly used in ice climbing tube-shaped screw-in cone, used to set a solid anchor point on the ice, and the upper protection station should be composed of two or more anchor points
Pioneer climbs the ice and can see the anchors that the climber's rope buckled into when it was extended downwards.
The top rope ice climbing, the main rope on the climber is directly connected to the seat belt, the main rope goes up through the protection station and then connects the protector, and the lower guard protects the climber and climbs up.
2. The connection of fans
The way in which coach Zhao connected his own safety belt to the main ropes does not show the reason for doing so. On the contrary, there are many hidden safety risks. For the time being, it is called the connection of fans.
Coach Zhao shows how to protect the reporter
Figure reporter brother decided to sin in danger, the connection is also a connection to the fan
In this paragraph, Coach Zhao explained to the reporter that he climbed up by relying on the connection between the fan and the main rope to protect himself and move the riser up on the rope while climbing. When the climbing is finished, it is also moving down and down.
Leading the climb: First of all, Zhao’s approach to ice climbing has never been seen. The blue device that is in direct contact with the master rope in his connection is an ascending device. It is mainly used to climb along the rope, and then he extends it to extend it. The distance between the ascender and the seat belt is interconnected by three main locks and two eight-letter rings. Not to mention his own way of climbing this way, this connection is simply wrong, the role of the first eight-shaped ring is not designed to be used to connect bearing, it is only a drop and protection device, followed by the lock The hard connection between the lock and the lock is best done through a flat strap (I don't see Zhao coach has a flat strap). In the climb, we tend to use the least equipment to complete the self-assured connection. The possibility of failure, of course, even if so, if everyone carefully observed, Zhao coach did not lock the main lock.
The specification of the equipment is easily found in the instructions for use of the equipment
Leading the climber: The ascender will lose the braking function on the icy rope. When it is stressed, it will be very difficult to pierce the icy rope with the thrust of the ascender. The consequence will be the loss of coach Zhao. The ascender will not have the effect of pulling him, he will fall directly to the ground. At the same time, the riser does not have a master lock that protects against detachment.
3. Climbing technology
Leading the climb: The reporter's admiring coach Zhao climbed more than a dozen meters of ice. In fact, if he had learned the correct ice-kicking skills, beginners could use such a height without ice crouching on their ice. The coaching technique used by Coach Zhao is neither front teeth nor all-tooth. This technique of using ice on the sides does not support the body well (seeing his shaking feet can be seen), and It's easy to slip and it's easy to think of why the coach Zhao gave up climbing in the back wall. It's not too steep.
4. Decline
Leading the climb: It is difficult to see from the video how they were able to remove the ascenders and convert them into an eight-character ring on the way to the ascent. If there were no secondary protections, removing the ascenders and changing them to a falling 8-character ring would be very dangerous.
5. Other non-ignorable security issues
Lead climbing: Helmet is an essential climbing equipment for ice climbing. Especially for this type of seasonal icefall, it can only be formed in the cold winter, and the stability of the ice varies with the morning, evening and evening temperatures. Not the same, it is easy to fall out of the ice, especially if there are people climbing above this situation, but also need to bring a helmet to protect the head and cervical spine.
We have been stressing the safety of climbing. The negligence of any one of the details may have the most serious consequences. Coach Zhao's mistakes are too many. We just cite a few very serious mistakes. Once these security risks happen, the end result will be. Will cause him to fall directly on the ground, but fortunately this program is safely recorded. Seeing such authoritative media in the country broadcast this program, it really hurts the fans and practitioners in the climbing community. We have been trying hard to transmit the concept of safe climbing. We hope CCTV's program team will be doing similar programs like this. You can be more cautious and consult with authorities more often.
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